STORY KEE HUA CHEE


With Lorenz Baumer helming the creative process, Louis Vuitton has entered the world of High Jewellery with several masterly strokes, from breathtaking designs to revolutionary Star Cut and Flower Cut faceted diamonds that mimic these two Monogram motifs.

FIRST LOUIS VUITTON VENTURED INTO FASHION. THEN IT WENT INTO WATCHES. Now it is jewellery, ever since creative director Marc Jacobs created a charm bracelet on a whim 8 years ago. With its high end jewellery designed by Lorenz Baumer, Louis Vuitton is now taking on the likes of Cartier, Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bvlgari, Harry Winston and Graff.

Lorenz Baumer is not a name that pops up frequently. Only aficionados know him as he is the sort who insists on knowing his potential customers before making any jewellery for their bodily pleasure. His lavish showroom in Place Vendome, Paris on the third floor is discreetly hidden from prying eyes though appointments are easily made.

Many are stunned to learn he was the designer for Chanel Fine Jewellery for an astonishing 20 years. Born in 1965 to a German diplomat and French artist mother, his father took him to live in USA, Europe, Canada and the Middle East. At 16 he met his final destination Paris and here the story began.

After graduating in 1988 in engineering from Ecole Centrale, he plunged into jewellery, furniture and tableware design. His first collection was shown a year later at his luxury home in rue Royale to great success. When he opened his Place Vendome showroom in 1995, he was just 30. Incredibly, a mere 9 years later, the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris accepted four of his jewels. He was also awarded the coveted Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres for outstanding achievement in the arts.

2009 was a red banner year as Baumer launched his watch collection and was appointed Artistic Director of Fine Jewellery by Bernard Arnault, boss of LVMH. Instead of integrating the Lorenz Baumer universe into Louis Vuitton jewellery, Arnault is doing the reverse. "Louis Vuitton is a generous company and I am using and re-inventing its heritage. Beauty is to be shared and I identify with this philosophy of LV," says Baumer.

Lorenz Baumer started with the Les Ardentes collection focusing on overlapping Monogram flowers so the eye is drawn to the central, most radiant stone. "I liken Les Ardentes to the Little Black Dress, an essential component in every woman's wardrobe," he explains. However, his first collection was unveiled last October in Paris on a magnificent scale. Called L'Ame du Voyage (Soul of the Journey), the 6 sets consisting of 30 pieces have pushed the envelop deep into uncharted territory.

"When creating L'Ame du Voyage, I did not tap into any influence but let my subconscious take over," he explains. "I was sketching and designing and along the way, I saw the marriage had worked and all the pieces were falling into place! I like to push back the limits. I live life on the edge of an abyss. That's what makes my life so fascinating."

He is too modest as it was not all dreams and inspiration. Many of his concepts required a deep understanding of structural technicalities which only his engineering background could have fathomed. In fact, his background allows him to materialise conceptual pieces of remarkable complexity, like metal lattice work that resembles lace and stone settings that have never been attempted before.

The Masai bib necklace, for instance, defies physics and imagination. With around 2,800 diamonds and precious stones from tsavorites and spessartites set on latticed circles and strings, the 450 parts come across like a baroque celebration of hedonism. The metal parts alone took 1,010 hours to complete, using yellow, white and rose gold. The stones took another 500 hours to set. Then again, it costs US$2.5 million.

Another elaborate piece uses diamonds and pale pink padparadschas to depict a geisha moving her fan to and fro, while a bejewelled hairpin can be dismantled and worn as a solo earring. "If Les Ardentes is my little black dress, then L'Ame du Voyage is my ballgown," he grins. He admits cheekily he may create 'sports wear' and 'casual gear' later. In which case, we can wear Lorenz Baumer from head to toe and for all occasions.